The lapel is the continuation of the suit jacket’s collar. But once you get to know lapel types and their diversity, it becomes a significant styling item.
On top of that, as a person becomes acquainted with lapels, they become more evident.
Then you reach a point where lapels are the first thing you notice in a suit.
Lapels also communicate about one’s personality and the formality of the occasion. Other things like the lapel’s width, pocket type, and tie should be appropriate too.
All of this can be a little overwhelming. But we’ll explain easily how to choose the right suit lapel type. Hopefully, by the end, you’ll master the ability to style them.
What is Lapel?
Lapels are folded cloth flaps on the edges of the suit jacket draping from the collar.
Looking at history, sports coats and suit jackets used to have lapels that stood up to the front.
Such front-facing lapels had buttons for protection against cold weather. But, gradually, lapels became less functional as gentlemen started folding them backward.
This adaptation led lapels to their current form.
Currently, lapels can retain a buttonhole, invariably on the left. But it’s a decorative unit rather than practical. A lapel pin or boutonniere attaches to this buttonhole.
Different Suit Lapels
There are essentially three types of suit lapels: the notched, peak, and shawl. All these are formed by a connection between the lapel and jacket collar called a gorge.
Shawl lapel is simple. The lapel and collar are a single cloth wrapping the neck like a shawl.
The notch is an indentation at the connecting point of the collar and the lapel. It’s a universal lapel style typically seen on most blazers, suit jackets, and coats.
In peak lapels, the lapels surpass the collar forming a peak. The peak lapels are uncommon nowadays but are a statement-making lapel style.
Besides these, there are other lapel types like fishmouth and clover lapels. But they are rare in men’s suits and no longer worn.
Suit Lapel Formality
The lapel plays a huge role in the formality of the suit. Therefore, you should choose the appropriate one for the current dress code formality.
The notch lapel is the most versatile lapel style appropriate for casual and formal situations.
Also, notch lapel suits are effortless to style and go well for routine wear, interviews, parties, and other dressy places.
Peak lapels, contrastingly, are the most formal lapel style. It’s prestigious and hence appears on power suits and other formal wear.
Peak lapels mean you are a bona fide man conveying charisma. These go with both suits and tuxedos.
Peak lapels will, therefore, fit in any formal occasion, from a wedding and business meeting to a black-tie event.
Shawl lapels (a.k.a. shawl collars) are exclusive for tuxedos and dinner jackets. So, it concurs with black-tie events and other fancy occasions appropriate for a tuxedo.
The Notch Lapel
The notch is a V-shaped incision at the lateral edges of the lapel connecting it to the collar at 75-90 degrees.
It’s a classic and timeless lapel style that pairs with everything. Sportcoats, blazers, and business suits will intuitively feature a notch.
Being the first to evolve, notch lapels have a traditional persona. With so much history to its name, it can’t go wrong with anything.
The notch looks great on both two and three-piece suits. Although these are particular for single-breasted suits, modern double-breasted suits also occasionally feature a notch.
A notch lapel also fits every body type. You can’t get wrong in a notched-lapel suit, no matter what your build is. However, there are still a few considerations.
First, the lapel size should be average. Large widths are only acceptable for people with wider chests.
Contrastingly, extra-slim lapels might seem fashion-forward, but they are not versatile.
Additionally, the notch should not be too deep so that the lapel and collar look like separates. Ideally, smaller notch for smaller lapels and vice versa.
There are ever-lasting opportunities when it comes to wearing a notch lapel suit.
You can wear it on countless formal and smart-casual occasions. Business, office wear, wedding, and job interviews are the classic ones.
You can also break the notched-lapel suit and match your jacket with odd trousers. As long as the jacket fits right, you’ll be smart and dressed.
The only downside to wearing a notched suit is you’ll not look different from the crowd. If you want to stand out, the peak lapel is the best option.
The Peak Lapel
Gentlemen don’t wear peak lapel suits every day, but it means style and formality whenever they do.
As the name suggests, Peak lapels have pointed ends that spread beyond the collar.
These lapels are a classic choice for double-breasted suits and go well with single-breasted suits.
The unfurling peaks of lapels make the shoulder look broad while narrowing down at the waist. This creates an inverted triangular appearance that looks attractive.
Hence, peak lapels flatter gentlemen with good weight and average height.
A suit with pointed lapels also sprinkles confidence. These lapels are, therefore, a trademark of executive business suits.
Patterns like a pinstripe, windowpane, and glen plaid also incorporate well with the peak lapels. Together with these patterns, peak lapel suits make a great power suit.
Peak lapels also go with tuxedos and tailcoats as a formal lapel style. But with these formal wear, peak lapels are more about matching the formality and less about personal style.
Since peak lapels go with a good deal of menswear, these will be appropriate for numerous occasions.
Black-tie events, weddings, cocktail parties, and high-stake business meetings are a few examples.
Although, most gentlemen don’t wear peak lapels with routine suits. We also don’t recommend having peak lapels on everyday business suits.
But if you are as uncompromising as Harvey Specter, they are a match for you.
The lapel width should be appropriate to get the best out of a peaked lapel suit. Narrow lapels are never acceptable, while broader ones look like wings attached to the jacket.
Additionally, peak lapels are extremely difficult to alter. Hence, a classic three to four-inch lapel is the best bet.
The Shawl Lapel
Wrapping the neck like a shawl, these lapels are an elegant and minimalistic alternative to peak lapels.
As the whole lapel is practically a collar, the shawl collar is another term for these.
A shawl collar expresses formality. It’s less versatile than other lapel types but has absolute grace.
The shawl lapel only looks best with formal wear such as tuxedos and dinner jackets.
As a preferred choice for black-tie events, the shawl collar is almost always of a different fabric from the jacket. Satin and grosgrain are the preferred material.
Additionally, the shawl lapels are mostly black. You can only see a white shawl collar on a white dinner jacket.
Formal evening events will be appropriate for wearing a shawl collar as a refined lapel style. These can be award shows, invited-only parties, and themed weddings.
Sometimes, the waistcoat on three-piece suits can feature a shawl collar. But in that case, the jacket usually has a peak lapel.
How to Choose the Right Suit Lapel
A double-breasted black pinstripe suit with peak lapels looks crisp, but it’s too much for a business-casual dress code.
Similarly, wearing notch lapels at a black-tie event is like being armorless on the battlefront.
Hence, choosing the right suit lapel is appropriate to fit in and look chic. The formality of the occasion is the major determiner of your lapel choice.
Notched lapels should be your go-to style and will be suitable for most of your events.
Go with peak lapels when you want to add a spark of confidence to your most formal looks. Only choose shawl lapels with tuxedos.
We’re moving one step ahead by adding some adorning consideration. Follow these to master the art of choosing lapels.
Suit Lapel Width
Unlike the lapel itself, its width evolved much. Classic 1920s suits had rational lapels that seemed subtle yet elegant.
Things changed in the last few decades of the 20th century when extra-wide wing lapels became a style.
Modern fashion standards favor slim lapels since they are in à la mode. Regular lapels, however, have never gone out of style and are still a preferred choice of most gentlemen.
Here’s how we classify lapels based on their width. Note that width is measured by a straight line projecting at 90-degree from the lapel angle to its outer margin.
- Slim: About 2.5 inches lapel size, apt for lean gentlemen. Roughly having a 35-38″ chest.
- Regular: Most popular and versatile lapel width, 2.7-3.3 inches. Goes for a 36-50″ chest.
- Wide: A lapel size greater than 3.5-inches. Ideal for people having a bigger chest [greater than 42″] with broad shoulders.
Suit Jacket Pocket Type Based on the Lapel
Like every other suit component, pocket types should match the formality.
Patch pockets are the most informal, while flap pockets are comparatively formal.
Both patch and flap pockets are acceptable with a notch-lapel suit, as both of these possess the same formality.
Peak lapels only go with flap pockets to match the formal nature of pointed lapels.
Likewise, shawl collars only go with jetted pockets due to their elegant and formal nature.
Tie Width vs. Lapel Width
Like lapels, a tie comes with multiple widths. Slim gentlemen prefer sleek ties, while muscular fellows love to have wide ties.
Sharing the same trend as a lapel, it’s ideal that the tie and lapel should be the same width. Minor changes are fairly acceptable, but there should be no drastic width changes.
Matching the tie and the lapel is quintessential as it creates symmetry in the outfit. Moreover, you’ll look composed without even trying.