Single-breasted vs. double-breasted is the debate that has been going on for quite a while. So let’s make things easier for you.
First, there’s the difference in button placements. While single-breasted suits have buttons in one row, double-breasted have two sets of button rows.
Besides this primary structural variation, single and double-breasted suits can differ on myriads of other factors. The details of all these are coming next.
Single-Breasted vs. Double-Breasted Suit Differences
A single-breasted suit is defined by the jacket’s front flaps meeting in the midline. The buttons go down and close in the center as a single column.
While in a double-breasted jacket, fabric flaps cross each other with two button columns on the sides.
Although a simple distinction, it creates several other differences between the two suit styles.
Formality Difference
A single-breasted suit can be your everyday wear. It will work for almost every dress code, from business casual to black-tie optional.
However, a double-breasted suit is appropriate when you want to put a step forward from your routine game. It’s because double-breasted suits tend to be more formal.
The peak lapels, strong shoulders, and fabric wrapping around the waist make double-breasted a formal suit option. So, a double-breasted suit will be great for weddings, galas, balls, etc.
Still, with appropriate colors and patterns, it can work for other conditions, including office, cocktail parties, and meetings.
Versatility & Style Limitations
Everything from pocket types to lapel size and type is more versatile in a single-breasted suit.
Plus, a single-breasted suit is effortless to dress up or down. You can wear it in a full suit, with odd trousers, chinos, jeans, t-shirts, polos, and everything. All this without any second thought.
In comparison, styling a double-breasted suit for everything is practically impossible. Sometimes, even the no-tie look in a double-breasted can become challenging to carry.
You also have the choice of wearing a vest with a single-breasted suit. Keep the jacket buttons open and enjoy the charismatic depth of the three-piece suit.
In contrast, it’s hard to match a double-breasted suit with a vest. Even if you wear it, you can’t afford to let the jacket open.
Suit Fit Differences
Although the fit is equally important to look good in both these suits, there are some differences.
For example, a double-breasted suit is slightly longer than a single-breasted one and a little boxy to allow proper buttoning. To check that the jacket is trimmed, there is a little tension on the double-breasted jacket buttons.
While a single-breasted suit should be cut as trim as possible, the jacket should feel as if it’s hugging you. But there should be no button tension whatsoever.
Next, the double-breasted suit jackets often have more padded shoulders. The purpose is to add structure to the jacket that increases the formality.
In comparison, a single-breasted suit often comes with soft shoulders because single-breasted jackets are more versatile.
Lastly, you might get away with a no-so-well cut single-breasted suit. But if the double-breasted suit doesn’t fit right, it’s a catastrophe.
Differences in Fabric Options
In both types of suits, there are plenty of high-quality fabrics to choose from. But since single-breasted is more common, the fabrics tend to offer more variety.
Single-breasted suits come in every fabric. Wool, cotton, linen, silk, and velvet are some options.
Wool, the most popular fabric, offers plenty of patterns and weaves for single-breasted suits. Hopsack, twill, flannel, pinstripe, and houndstooth are some of the popular examples.
Double-breasted suit fabrics, in comparison, have a little less variety. Also, they rarely have a sheen to them.
Still, there is a good range of fabrics with multiple patterns and weaves. High-grade wool is almost always the fabric choice.
While the flannel, pinstripe, herringbone, glen plaid, and window are some good patterns as well.
Single-Breasted Suit Button Closure Differences
Different single-breasted suit styles can range from one to three-button jackets. The buttons impact the lapel size, with more buttons leading to shorter lapels.
One-button single-breasted jackets are not that common. These are only reserved for tuxedos and feature peak or shawl lapels.
Sometimes, short gentlemen choose a single-button suit jacket to create a proportionate silhouette. And the rule here is always to fasten this single button.
Two-button single-breasted suit jacket is the standard style. These are versatile and mostly feature notch-lapels. Here, you only button the top button for a flattering figure.
Three-button jackets are a less-formal suit style. It peaked in the late 20th century and is sometimes considered a little antique for modern style.
The shorter lapels, due to high button-stance, don’t complement everybody. But for tall fellows, it could be a good choice.
Double-Breasted Suit Button Closure Differences
Double-breasted suits come in plenty of different appellations and vary on the number of buttons. 6×1, 6×2, and 4×2 are a few examples.
The first number in the double-breasted button configuration represents the total number of jacket buttons. At the same time, the second one depicts the functional buttons.
For example, 6×2 jackets have six total buttons, two of which could actually be fastened.
The 6×2 double-breasted suit is the most traditional option. It’s formal and business appropriate and puts an attestation to your gentlemanly fashion sense.
A 6×1 is a more flared-up version inspired by the Italian style. Lower-buttoning and more extended jacket lapels here create a somewhat casual style.
There is another 4×2 button configuration in the double-breasted suits. It’s common but not as formal as 6×2.
While 4×1 and 2×1 are rare. You will only see these worn by high-fashion celebrities. Also, note that double-breasted jackets will always go with peak-lapel.
Where to Wear a Single- or Double-Breasted Suit
Dressed-up moments demand to wear a suit, and the single-breasted ones are often the most suitable choice.
These are the instances of weddings, business environments, job interviews, dinner parties, cocktails, graduations, and many more.
While you can wear a double-breasted suit on all these occasions, it’s not often the first choice. Instead, double-breasted suits are appropriate for events that need you to dress more than “merely stylish.”
Formal weddings, yacht parties, corporate dinners, special invite events, and ceremonies are some excellent occasions to wear the double-breasted suit.
However, with the proper styling and confidence, you can wear a double-breasted suit for almost any occasion.
Single vs. Double-Breasted Suits FAQs
Which one is more stylish: the single-breasted or the double-breasted?
The answer is often subjective. However, a good number of gentlemen agree to consider double-breasted more stylish.
A single-breasted suit is like a white dress shirt – the wardrobe staple. It’s also way more versatile.
On the other hand, the double-breasted suit is like a black dress shirt. It looks great but only with the confidence to pull it off. However, it’s no replacement for a white shirt.
How to button up a double-breasted suit?
First, you need to fasten the anchor button as it helps align the jacket. Next, you can fasten all the functional buttons. It gives the best possible structure to the jacket.
However, many gents, especially in contemporary style, left one button undone.
Should I leave the outside bottom button of a double-breasted suit unbuttoned?
Yes, it’s completely fine not to button the bottom button of the DB jacket. In fact, this style is becoming so prevalent that it might become a rule.
Should I button all buttons on a single-breasted suit?
Single-breasted suits should never be completely buttoned. Instead, the bottom button is always left undone. As a result, the jacket looks aesthetically cool and allows a good range of movement.
Can I wear a vest with a double-breasted suit?
No. Although you can try, it’s practically useless since the suit will mask the vest. Therefore, it’s better to avoid the vest.