Suit jacket length and size aren’t the most self-explanatory when it comes to their labels.
The numbers make sense; they are related to your measurements.
But what does the letter on the label mean? And more importantly, are those letters important to you?
The answer is yes; they are significant! Those letters, either S, R, or L (short, regular, or long), will indicate the suit jacket’s length related to your body size.
Suit Jacket Length Basics
One of the best ways to check the fit of your suit jacket is by taking a close look at the length of your suit jacket.
You can often tell by a quick glance if your suit jacket is too long or too short; either one indicates that your jacket isn’t a proper fit.
However, sometimes a too-long or too-short jacket doesn’t mean a bad fit. If all other suit elements fit, you can avoid the jacket length issue.
Therefore, it’s helpful to know the guidelines for where your jacket hem should fall.
Naturally, since all bodies are different, there isn’t one standard length that will apply to every person.
Proper Suit Jacket Length
Your height determines the measurements of your jacket length.
So each person will have different measurements, but the suit jacket should look the same for every person.
For example, your suit jacket should be long enough to cover your rear end.
However, it should not be so long that the hem goes past your thumb while your hands are at your side.
You can also measure it from the front; your suit jacket should come to around the middle of your crotch or the base of your thumb.
Different Suit Jacket Length Variants
Suitmakers understand that a standard jacket length size won’t work for all men; not all torsos are the same length.
Therefore, it wouldn’t make sense that every jacket would be the same length.
To accommodate this individuality, designers make three different suit jacket lengths. You can find short, regular, or long variations of jackets.
They are represented in sizing by the chest size number, followed by S (short), R (regular), or L (long).
A short jacket is usually 1 – 3/16″ shorter than regular jackets, and long jackets are typically 1 – 3/16″ longer than regular ones.
These measurements also apply to the jacket’s sleeve length.
Following these sizing guidelines, it should ensure that nobody ends up with a suit jacket that is too long or too short for them.
Short vs. Regular vs. Long Suit Jacket Length & Which One to Choose
Which suit jacket length is right for you? The answer may not be immediately apparent, so it helps to know the Golden Rule of suit jackets.
If you are under 5’8″ tall, pick a jacket that’s labeled S for “short.” If you are taller than 6’2″, you are best off with a “long” jacket. Finally, if you fall between these heights, you should choose the “regular” length.
Again, remember to check where the jacket hem lines up on your body.
Logic may tell you that you need a regular suit jacket. But if it is as long as your thumb line, you’ll probably look better in a short jacket.
Differences in Jacket Sleeve Length
Just as a “short” suit jacket has a shorter hemline, it also has shorter sleeves.
This is because the jacket sleeves need to remain proportional to the jacket’s torso.
It stands to reason that if a person has a long torso, they also have long arms, and a short torso means shorter arms.
Remember that your dress shirt sleeves should poke out from under your suit jacket sleeves, exposing approximately 1/4″ -1/2″ of the dress shirt.
Proper Jacket Length Helps the Suit Fit
The appropriate length of a suit jacket helps your overall outfit look good. Also, it helps to ensure that the rest of the jacket fits well.
Your overall fit needs to look like the jacket was designed specifically for your body.
When you are standing and your jacket is buttoned, you shouldn’t notice any cross pulling across your torso, making your jacket look like an X.
The bottom opening under your button should not pull apart, either. These are signs that your jacket is too tight.
However, it also shouldn’t sag at the button. If your jacket hangs away from your chest and stomach, it’s too large. Try moving down a size or two.
Your shoulders are another critical area to check. The shoulder seams need to line up with the ends of your shoulders.
If the seams go past your shoulders, the suit jacket is too large. That will create unsightly and uncomfortable bunching.
How Chest Size Affects the Suit Jacket Length
Different fit suits sit differently on each body. A slim-fit suit, for example, hugs the chest tightly.
This may hike up the length of your jacket slightly. A looser-fitting suit jacket will have more room in the chest area.
If you have a large chest, it would be wise to opt for a loose-fitting suit jacket. That will ensure that you have enough room for mobility and comfort.
How to Measure for the Right Jacket Size
Getting an accurate measurement of your body is essential for ensuring that you wind up with a suit jacket that fits you well.
Remember to keep your measuring tape level while taking your measurements, and don’t wear any heavy clothing that can skew your measurements.
First, measure around your chest at its fullest part. The tape measure needs to be under your arms but with your arms relaxed at your side.
To find your sleeve length:
- Bend your arm very slightly.
- Start the tape measure at the base of your neck.
- Run it down the outside length of your arm, stopping at your wrist.
You can measure your suit jacket’s length by putting the tape measure at the top of your shoulder. Then, run it down the front of your chest to where the jacket should end.
Remember, this should be around the middle of your crotch.
Different Suit Jacket Fits
Suits can be cut in various ways to affect how they fit you. Depending on your body type, you may prefer one cut over the others.
The three most popular fits are slim, regular, and modern.
Slim-fit suits have less fabric; they sit a little snug around the chest and waist. This style is a very European look and is excellent for accentuating your body.
Regular-fit suits are the traditional style of suits. They tend to be rather boxy but offer plenty of room and are the most comfortable fit.
And finally, modern fit suits are the middle-of-the-road fit, sitting close to the body but having more room for movement than the average slim fit suit.
How to Find the Right Suit Jacket Fit
One of the main factors in deciding which suit fit is best for you is your body type.
Remember that, above all, the suit must be very well-fitted.
For example, if you have a large chest, you probably want to steer clear of slim-fit suits.
On the other hand, a slim-fit suit is your ideal style if you are lean and athletic since it will work well with your build.
Oval and belly body types make a mistake by wearing slimmer suits. They can work against that body type and make you look rumpled.
The regular fit is the best choice here, but you can go for a modern fit if you want a trendier option.
Again, a modern-fit suit is for people who enjoy some room for movement, but the suit should still make you appear slimmer.
Suit Jacket Fit for Short Men
Shorter men under 5’8″ should choose the short suit jacket variant.
When choosing a short suit jacket, a slim fit is preferable.
In addition, since a short jacket has less material along the bottom, it makes sense to have less material throughout the entire piece.
A shorter suit jacket helps create the illusion of length for a shorter person and allows them to appear taller.
However, a longer jacket on a short man is simply too large; it will appear to swallow its wearer.
A short suit jacket has permission to break the sizing rule of where the jacket’s hem should fall.
For example, it is acceptable if the hem is slightly higher than a regular jacket length.
If possible, have your suit buttons placed higher up on your jacket to lean into the illusion of length. That will give the impression that the jacket is longer than it really is.
Above all, the suit jacket must be well fitted. A nicely tailored suit jacket is always a man’s best fashion accessory.
Suit Jacket Fit for Tall Men
Taller men above 6’2″ should pick the long suit jacket option.
If you are a tall man, a long jacket is essential to prevent the appearance of wearing a suit that’s too small for you.
A two-button single-breasted jacket is best for this longer version of suit style. And avoid vertical lines, which add to the perception of height.
Getting the size perfect on a long suit jacket may be a challenge, especially for tall, thin men.
If the longer-length jacket is slightly too loose on you, it may be best to purchase that suit jacket and have it taken in.
It would be better than the alternative of buying a suit that isn’t loose but is too short.
When possible, check out bespoke suit options. You are most likely to have a fantastic fitting suit if it’s made specifically for your measurements.
Making Alterations
Suit alterations are possible, but keep in mind that your tailor can’t fix all issues.
If ordering a made-to-measure suit isn’t an option, you can rely on your tailor to make certain adjustments for a better-fitting suit.
Suits can be taken in at most areas, except for the shoulders.
So if the shoulders on a suit don’t fit, there isn’t much that a tailor can do; they are complicated to deconstruct and put back together without affecting the rest of the jacket.
However, decreasing the waist or the sleeves is not tricky.
Also, letting out a suit jacket is very limited. There isn’t typically a lot of extra suit fabric tucked inside the lining, so a tailor wouldn’t have much material to work with.
Of course, each suit brand is different, so some suits may be easier to let out than others.