The suit fit is King. Although most men believe in this phrase, only a few practice it.
That’s why, despite gathering basic information, not many gentlemen ace their suit fit.
It seems easy to decipher that a good-fitting suit should appear wrinkle-free and provide utmost comfort.
But it’s the thoughtfulness in details that make the suit look perfect.
This guide is about paying attention to those details that could make or break a suit.
Such preciseness would help you pinpoint the flaws and take the suit game to the next level.
How Should the Suit Fit: Things to Consider
A well-fitting suit sharply matches the body’s natural contours.
The suit jacket must follow the “golden ratio” concept by having broad shoulders with a tapering silhouette.
The jacket must close easily and should be gently hugging you. Jacket and sleeve lengths are also considered key things.
The pant’s waist, length, fit, and style are other essential attention areas.
Wearing a suit that’s not fitted for you will look bad and feel bad with no breathing or room for movement.
So before we dive into the details of each, it’s important to choose the type of fit you need.
Suit Cut & Fit Style
There are three suit cuts options for men: regular, slim, and modern.
While the regular fit is known for its comfort and body movement, the slim fit focuses on a tighter silhouette and sharp look. On the other hand, the modern fit grabs a bit of both worlds.
In terms of styling, you can go for a single- or double-breasted suit.
The number of buttons also plays a huge role in the suit’s style. Most single-breasted suits have two, or three-button buttons on the front.
Next, we have the jacket’s lapel. It can be notch, peaked, or shawl. The first one is most casual, while the last is usually reserved for tuxedos.
Short vs. Regular vs. Long Fit Jackets
Off-the-rack suits usually feature three jacket lengths: “S,” “R,” and “L,” referring to small, regular, and long fit jackets.
Generally, men being 5’8″ or less should go for short. Men between 5’8″ and 6’2″ should go for regular, while above 6’2″ should go with long-fit jackets.
However, short, regular, and long fits also determine sleeve length. But sometimes, it’s hard to find a combination of an ideal sleeve length and fit of the jacket.
In case of a mismatch, choose to have an adequate jacket fit and adjust the sleeve length.
How Should the Suit Jacket Fit
Stylists and menswear experts emphasize the fit of the suit jacket more than anything else.
It’s because, scientifically, a jacket is the epicenter of one’s field of view. Such limelight augments even the slightest tailoring mistake.
Shoulders, collars, sleeves, and jacket length are the most crucial factors in the jacket’s fit. We’ll be discussing each one separately.
First, never forget the rule that the suit jacket should close effortlessly and gently hug you.
Suit Jacket Length
Proper jacket length is a dark horse in the suit fit. It seems like a clinch but can easily get wrong.
To know the right jacket length, stand with your arms by your side and make a fist. The tips of your fingers should touch the bottom of your jacket.
Jacket length should also adorn the body. It should be appropriate enough to cover the butts.
Ideally, the measurement from the bottom of the jacket to the neck and the bottom hem of the pants should look identical.
Tall men should be very cautious about the jacket length, as any irregularity can cause the legs or torso to look asymmetrical.
Your preferred type of fit also impacts the jacket length. For example, slim-fit suits have shorter jacket lengths.
The best suiting tip about jacket length is to “get it right in the first place.”
Although a tailor can adjust the jacket length, tailoring will destroy the uniformity in the button and pockets.
Midsection and Suit Jacket Closure Fit
A good midsection fit is easy to achieve and creates a flattering silhouette.
The right way to check the fit is to close the top button of the suit jacket and slide your hand in.
Any ample space will tell you that the mid-section has excess fabric. In comparison, the inability to slide the hand in is a giveaway for a tight fit.
Many tailors find the perfect fit at the midsection when the jacket is gently hugging you.
A poor midsection fit is also easy to identify. The X-wrinkle is the definitive indication of a tight jacket and poor fit.
Similarly, if the suit jacket is too large, it will sack forward upon closing the button.
Fortunately, a tailor can correct the excess midsection fabric and make adjustments to make it feel right.
Midsection and jacket closure fit become complicated with men having belly fat.
In such cases, the first thing to do is wear high-waisted pants. Then, you can ask your tailor to spare some excess lower midsection fabric to accommodate belly fat.
Suit Jacket Button Stance
Button stance refers to the position of the top button on the body. It’s important for many reasons; the most important one is to look proportional.
For two-button suits, the rule is that the top button corresponds with our belly button.
Up to one inch above the belly button is acceptable. If more, it destroys the V-formed lapels.
However, keep in mind that the top button should never hit below the naval. It will make the suit lapels look bizarre.
Since most gentlemen don’t intend to button up the top button, the button stance can be up to 2-inch above the belly button.
The middle button should be around the belly button. However, like a two-piece suit, it should never be below the navel.
When it comes to button closure, you should be only buttoning the top button in a two-button suit.
The three-button suit has the “sometimes, always, never” rule, meaning that you should sometimes fasten the top one and always the middle one.
Shoulder Seam and Shoulder Fit
Shoulder fit is important because it gives the most obvious indication of the jacket’s fit. But there are multiple ways men can go wrong with the shoulder fit.
Also, it’s almost impossible yet expensive for a tailor to alter the shoulders. So it makes shoulders arguably the most crucial factor in the suit fit.
For a perfect fitting jacket, the shoulder’s seam must end before the arms start to break down. The sleeve should then roll smoothly along the arm.
The shoulder can sag or bite, both clearly indicating poor fit.
Tight shoulders are easy to identify. There will be wrinkling near the lapels with a limited range of motion and discomfort.
Although not causing any apparent discomfort, saggy shoulders are a true killer of the jacket’s fit.
A screening test for the shoulder fit is to make shoulder contact against the wall. Ideally, the suit should contact the walls first, followed by the shoulders.
If the shoulder hits the wall first, the shoulders are too tight. Contrastingly, if there is a bunching fabric between the shoulder and the suit, the suit is too big.
Rumpling can sometimes arise along the shoulder seam, especially with off-the-rack suits. It’s because of differences in human shoulder types.
Going with a custom suit is the best option in such cases.
Suit Jacket Collar Fit
The suit jacket collar connects the lapels and rests on the neck. The pertinent fit will be a gently resting collar with no gaps and creasing.
Retracting collar gap indicates a large jacket, while creases indicate an overly-tight fit.
Problems with collar fit rarely happen individually; they often correlate with other issues, most commonly the shoulders.
If the shoulders are tight, there will be a concurrent strain on the collar, appearing as creases.
There is practically no way to fix a tight collar. Therefore, the only possible solution will be to find an alternative size.
Retraction of the collar is a more common manifestation of poor fit. Most commonly, it happens with men with round shoulders.
Another problem men often face is the feeling of a poor-fitting collar while doing movements.
The solution will be to do movements like crossing your hands and mimicking eating movements to know the collar fit.
If it doesn’t feel right, choose another suit.
Arms and Sleeve Fit
Getting the precise arms and sleeve fit gives even some very debonair gentlemen a hard time. Ideally, sleeves should drape smoothly from the shoulders without any wrinkles providing comfort.
Mostly wrinkles appear due to a bad pitch. The pitch is the angle at which sleeves attach to the torso.
Due to differences in normal arm hanging arm positions, there could be wrinkles in the arms. A person’s posture can also create arm and sleeve folds.
You can get the sleeve altered by a professional tailor. But, it’s slightly expensive, and only exceptionally skillful tailors can get it perfect.
Jacket Sleeve Length
The ideal sleeve length is a topic of ongoing discussion in the menswear community. Most experts consider the jacket sleeve to end right at the wrist bone.
The sleeve should end so that ½ to ¼ inch of dress shirt cuff should be visible. However, a ⅕ to 1-inch visible shirt is acceptable.
If more than 1 inch of the shirt cuff is visible, the jacket sleeve is too long. Contrastingly, the jacket sleeve is too short if no shirt cuff is evident.
Some dappers take their suit game one step up by considering the proportions.
The idea here is to match the visible shirt collar and cuff measurements.
Most off-the-rack suit jackets have broad sleeves. So, after alteration, sleeves will have an abnormally big circumference compared to the cuff.
As sleeve adjustment is the most common suit alteration, get it tapered to look proportionate.
How Should the Suit Pants Fit
Although a suit jacket gets most of the limelight, pants are unequivocal for comfort. The reasons are obvious.
But unlike the suit jacket, good-fitting pants are comparatively easy to find and could be altered easily.
We’ll cover everything about suits in under four sections only. As a central idea, keep in mind that suit pants should be comfortable.
At the same time, avoid saggy and overly tight pants.
Pants Waist
Most men wear suit pants with a waistline around three fingers below the navel. The choice is mostly subjective, but other factors also influence the waist.
Classic high-waisted pants for men with appropriate rise provide the utmost comfort.
Some prefer low to normal-waisted pants, owing to their taste in fine Italian slim-fit suits. However, sometimes external factors become more significant than personal style.
Gentlemen with extra pounds on their bellies mostly go with high-waisted pants. While leaner gentlemen often wear pants at their natural waist.
Moreover, the waist should be appropriate enough to conceal the underlying tie and shirt, depending on the suit jacket.
Once you determine the waistline, the next step is to choose the right waist.
The criteria for choosing the right waist is that pants should snugly fit without being loose or tight.
The pants should also stand right at the waistline without the belt. You can wear a belt, however, as an accessory.
Fitting the Legs
The fit of the legs covers both the thighs and the area below the knee. The best approach will be 1-inch fabric beside the thigh followed by tapering towards the legs.
If you can pinch more than 1-inch fabric in the thigh, the pants are too loose. Similarly, no pinching means tight pants.
The fit of the legs is properly evident while sitting. A tight thigh creates inward wrinkles the thighs.
In comparison, baggy pants will create an asymmetry in the upper and lower body.
Also, with the right thigh fit, you can easily do the movement without feeling any discomfort.
For example, doing a squat or bending the knees is a quick way to determine the fit.
Pants Length
Outseam and inseam are two types of pants length. The outseam is the standard length from the waistline to the ankle.
Rarely you’ll see a perfect combination of ideal length and waist. In 6/10 times, you’ll have to get either the length or waist altered.
Inseam is more significant as it impacts the “rise,” “crotch,” and eventually the length of the pant itself. It’s an inward measurement from the crotch to the hemline.
For example, in a 32×30 measuring suit pants, 32 will be the waist, and 30 will be the inseam.
Generally, low inseams have a higher rise and a roomier crotch.
But that isn’t always good. A lower than normal inseam will make suit pants look baggy.
It will also impair the thigh and leg fit. Fortunately, such inseams are easily fixable and are pretty affordable.
Comparatively, high inseams not only look bad but are extremely uncomfortable.
In addition, there will be crotch wrinkles while sitting, and the suit will not look pleasingly symmetrical.
Lastly, the way the lower inseam called hem lands on shoes is a huge discussion in the menswear community. So we’ll be covering it next.
Trouser Break
A crease anywhere in a suit is practically a caution of poor fit but not in the trouser’s hem.
Good fitting suit pants have a slight fold on the front of the lower leg called “pants break.” One horizontal fold is ideal, known as a “slight break.”
“No break” is suitable with properly tapered trousers, especially for young gentlemen.
It’s a trendy approach that looks great while standing but can expose the leg while sitting. As a savior, you should bring your best sock game.
On the flip side, the full break is a more classic style with a significant folding fabric at the angle.
But the approach in the trouser break and fashion generally abiding by the principle, “modesty is the best policy.”
How the Cut Affects the Suit Fit
Again, slim, modern, and regular fit are three kingpins of suit cuts. However, despite common grounds, each has some key differences.
There is no right or wrong; it’s just a difference in opinions.
The Slim-Fit Suit
A slim fit cut is a fashion-forward approach to suits. The suit will be comfortable with a spot-on fit and without excess fabric.
Slim-fit suits feature an Italian cut and are snug without being overly tight. In addition, it features an unerring shoulder with a narrow cut around the chest and waist.
For example, Daniel Craig has worn some good slim-fit suits in his James Bond movies.
The lapels are narrow to augment the sharp look. The sleeve also tapers and is close to the shirt sleeve.
The pants are at their natural waist, flat without pleats, tapering down, usually with no or slight break.
A similar slim-fit dress shirt will be the best choice with the suit.
Slim-fit suits are for lean gentlemen who focus on looking sharp without carrying excess fabric.
They are also sophisticated and dapper, hence ideal for a first-suit option.
The Regular-Fit Suit
The American cut is what we know as a regular-fit suit. The regular fit is a traditional and never-goes-out-of-style fit providing ample space to be comfortable.
Thomas Shelby in Peaky blinders and Don Draper in Mad Men have depicted a perfect image of classic suits.
A regular-fit suit has broad shoulders with a roomy chest providing a good range of movement with comfort.
The jacket is also slightly longer than slim-fit ones. At the same time, pants sit at normal to high waist with straight fit or slight tapering.
Although there is slight excess fabric, pants should never be baggy. In short, regular-fit suits focus on providing a relaxed look without sharp cuts.
Due to the relaxed feel, regular fit suits make great work and business wear.
Although regular fit suits can go in every weather, they look better with heavier suit material like wool.
Additionally, alterations in a regular fit suit are comparatively easy to make.
The Modern-Fit Suit
A modern-fit suit is a modest and refined form of slim and regular fit suits. It’s a versatile business choice because of such duality.
John Wicks and Harvey Specter suits are examples of modern fit suits.
The suit is neither snug nor has any excess fabric. It has sharp shoulders, high armholes, and a fitted chest.
But the jacket is not as tight as the slim fit and provides a good range of motion. So the cut in the chest differentiates slim-fit from modern-fit suits.
The pants usually sit low on the waist and are gradually tapered from legs to ankles.
In comparison to a regular-fit suit, a modern suit has a trimmed chest area and a finer silhouette.
Fitting the Suit Vest
The suit itself is an extremely sophisticated dress. Adding the vest further increases the suit’s charisma.
Contrary to suit jackets, fitting the vest isn’t that difficult. The front, back, chest and armholes are some areas of consideration.
The front of the vest must be snug against the body. The shoulders lie flat, and the waistcoat should taper at the waist.
Likewise, there should be no bunching of fabric on the front.
In comparison, minimal bunching is acceptable on the back due to the adjustable strap attachment. Moreover, pulling buttons should be avoided as they depict a tight waistcoat.
We recommend having a deep-cut armhole with a waistcoat as it provides more comfort in the movements.
The waistcoat should end 1-inch lower than the waistband at the front, while right at the waistband from the back.
If wearing a V-shaped waist, ensure the “V” is narrow enough to be visible under the lapels.
Waistcoats or vests can be single or double-breasted. The fitting rules are the same for both.
As a reminder, never button the bottom button of the waistcoat.
Fitting the Dress Shirt
The fit of a dress shirt has rules that almost remain the same when paired up with a suit.
However, the collar, sleeves, shoulders, and, most importantly, comfort become significant.
The collar fit must be right on point because the drawback will pop out clearly.
If you can slide two fingers and feel like the collar surrounds your neck but doesn’t press it, the collar fits right.
The shoulder of the shirt end should end right at the junction of your arm and shoulder.
The armscye (armhole against the sleeve) should be appropriate enough to allow free movements.
Sleeves should not form wrinkles and should have 1-2 inch fabric for comfortable movements.
In addition, the sleeves should end at the wrist bone in a way that covers the bone.
With the right suit jacket sleeve length, ½ inch of the cuff will be visible.
Also, if you’re a watch guy, the dress shirt should cover 50% of your watch. Moreover, the cuff should be adequate to accommodate the watch.
Lastly, most men wear a shirt the same as their suit cut, i.e., a slim-fit shirt with a slim-fit suit.